Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS15 (Day 1 and 2)


Paris is home to perhaps the biggest icons in the fashion universe, it houses brands including Louis Vuitton, Hermés, Saint Laurent and many many more. It all started on Wednesday 25th June, and we seen collections from the likes of Carven, Valentino and a designer I've been loving so much lately, the man behind one of the greatest sneaker collaborations ever, Raf Simons. The day later we witnessed a collection by one of my absolute favourite fashion houses, the one and only Louis Vuitton under a leading figure in menswear Mr. Kim Jones and a collection that I'm honestly not that drawn to, but this show truly amazed me and that was another man behind one of the biggest sneaker collaborations of its time, none other than Yohji Yanamoto. It was just so incredibly different, which is mainly why I loved it so much. Anyway shall we begin with the post? Yes, let's!

Carven
Ok I may be borrowing (ahem stealing) this line from Dazed Digital but it's just that I can't describe this show as well as this... "80s casuals through a refined Parisian lens" Carven's latest collection enhanced sportswear and casualwear and took it to a new level of luxury and modernised it in a way I imagined unimaginable, to take something that originated in Northern England (Liverpool, Manchester, Newcastle etc.) and transform it into what we seen throughout the whole of the collection, I just thought was spectacular. To me, it felt like football hooligan-ism had time travelled into a Spring and Summer 2015 collection, which in turn it did basically. Ignore what I just said haha! Overall it was just very unexpected. The garments varied from minimalistic, graphic, bold, blocked and linear. Even the clothes on the woman were amazing, the polo-neck shift dresses, I didn't think a 1980s football fan, and the way he dressed could be turned into a really cool womanswear look, so effortlessly. The colour palette even resembled football shirts, only without the cruel patterns and designs that featured on them almost three decades ago. I loved the short sleeve shirts that were worn with jogging pants, a look that could quite easily go horribly wrong and resemble too much of the era we all want to forget, fashion wise, but I have to say it worked and I loved it. We all know I love sweatshirts and bomber jackets etc. so it was obvious I would like the ones featured in this collection. So we'll just leave that comment as that. And to make a grey or black suit look sporty, I would imagine is hard, especially to make it look good also, but with the stripes down it side it looked great. The whole collection took a subtle approach to sports, the 1980s, football, youth culture - how on earth can anyone find a subtle approach to what I just mentioned, I'll tell you who, Carven designer Guilluame Henry.



Valentino
In short, Jimi Hendrix's traditional flower power, in long a beautifully crafted menswear collection that I am now about to describe to you all. Watch this space. Watched. I loved this Valentino collection, the shapes, the colours and of course the unexpected oversized polo shirts which I thought were fantastic.  It was again, like Carven with that youthful and rebellious feeling, but of course with that eagerly awaited twist of luxury and elegance. The silk used in the collection, not only looked incredible to the eye, but I imagined it felt amazing also. The colours weren't the most flattering on the clothes themselves, but with all those detailed colourful designs I thought increased the aesthetics massively, and seeing camouflage in yet another collection, with those full camo suits was amazing, I'm obsessed with Valentino's take on camouflage, who isn't? It was a very pjjama inspired collection, with absolutely adorable print designs, and also white varied designs ranging from florals and dandelions to stars and animals and to just say that attention to detail, to me is very important and this collection detail-wise was nothing short of perfect. The pins attached to collars were also very very beautiful. But I have to mention that I weren't loving the super long sleeves that much even though it seem really cozy. Didn't think I would ever describe a Valentino collection as cozy, but I just did so there you go. What also seemed really comfortable was the oversized jumpers. And how did I almost forget this? The seventies influence has struck again, but I mean this in a good way although it didn't sound like that. It was seen on two brilliantly executed wide-collared suede jackets, in both khaki and a burnt orange and covered in studs and flower appliqués. I must say my favourite shows all had a seventies vibe going on, this Valentino collection, Topman Design and Katie Eary, both who we seen last week during London Collections. And I don't want to ruin things, but Louis Vuitton also has a 1970s feel to it. My favourite looks as always below.




Yohji Yanamoto 
Again, a designer who I honestly don't tend to look too much at when researching fashion shows. I know I shouldn't but I just spend much more time looking at and reading about designers I love (Saint Laurent, Burberry etc.) But this time I thought I would try and look at all the collections, because you never know how you feel about something until you've actually experienced what it's all about. And I'm so glad that I done this because I was so surprised and slightly taken back by how simply amazing I found this collection, so I would just like to thank Mr. Y3 himself, even though he'll probably never see my thank you message to him. I'm sure all his collections are unique and as crazy as this one, but I thought this was a really excellent collection. This show felt very traditional with oriental taperstry prints evolving into warped double denim Americana tuxedos. I remember reading somewhere that Yohji Yanamoto is like a king of deconstructing garments and like re-constructing them into something completely different and it's safe to say this concept highlighted this collection to me, especially the jackets that were sliced in half, one part sleeve and one part holster, really innovative design. I also loved the bandanas, which by the way are making a return for SS15, that read 'Los Angeles' and also the Japanese 'have you seen' posters attached to the backs of the models, as they walked. It had a certain amount of Victorian elements to it also I felt, with the hats and the dull colours that featured around mid-way of the show. When I was looking at the show, I really didn't understand what the splashes of yellow/green paint resembled on the runway? But when I was reading Style.com review, it would appear that the puddles were actually representing vomit, yeah you heard correctly! Haha vomit? Really? So anyway, just to mention again that I'm really glad that I chose to research this show because it really was great. But what I'm really trying to say is try new things every once in a while, and that doesn't necessarily mean go swimming with sharks or climbing a mountain because it can be as simple as listening to a new music genre or trying something else on the menu at a restraunt. Woah shit just got deep! Haha you get my point hopefully. 




Louis Vuitton
Yet again the Louis Vuitton menswear show amazed me and Kim Jones is doing an absolutely fantastic job at the helm of such a definitive fashion house. Another brand that took its inspiration from the classic 1970s only I think this was the most luxurious take on the trend, I mean come on it is Louis Vuitton. However to also had a sort of industrial twist to with those fuchsia jumpsuits, which at one point reminded me of that scene in Armegeddon in which they're all walking alongside each other, bit weird but that's my comparison haha! As for the colour palette, there were some nicely chosen warm oranges, rich blues and vivid pinks and I loved that classic Louis Vuitton tan colour combined with that really retro blue. We all know of Kim Jones' love for travel, and I genuinely hope the journey never ends because I love what he brings to Paris season after season. A year ago, the Creative Director took on a journey across America and this time, inspired by Northwestern India. What I also loved was the mirrored embroidery that civered garments head to toe, a concept that revitalised the techniques of classic Indian Shisha. And those patches that featured on my much loved bomber jackets, safari shirts and belted jackets that read "Volez! Voguez! Voyagez!" Or to us that don't speak French, "Fly! Sail! Travel!" Again on to the 70s trend, this collection focused on high-waisted trousers that were worn with trainers, and like I mentioned earlier the wide-collared shirts with retro zig zag patterns inspired by Indian jockeys, the pilot influenced jumpsuits and finally with the sand coloured suede and those white double breasted jackets were simply fascinating although I myself couldn't were something like that. The trainers however were kept simple, which I think was best for the collection as it enhanced the rest of the looks, the sunglasses were John Lennon cool and seeing the Keepall on the runway is always fun to see how it's been updated from the last collection. 




Well there you have it, my personal coverage of Day 1 and 2 at Paris Fashion Week Menswear, leave a comment on your thoughts regarding Paris fashion and what shows are your favourite at PFW? You all perhaps know what mine is by now haha! Thanks for reading and join me tomorrow for my coverage of Day 3 and 4, should be exciting...
xxx

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