Day 1 at Paris Fashion Week Menswear


Well ladies and gentlemen, children of all ages yesterday was the first day of Paris Fashion Week Menswear. Paris may be my favourite fashion city out of the four main ones, what's your favourite? Paris, Milan, London, New York? Leave a comment below with your answer, I'd love to know why you chose that city. On day 1 we had shows from Walter Van Beirendonck which was one of my favourites from the past two weeks or so and we'll get to why a little later, we also seen Raf Simons which looked interesting and finally also Valentino. So I guess we should begin.

Walter Van Beirendonck
Walter Van Beirendonck was simply one of the most politically dominating shows I think I've ever seen, it was simply incredible. "Stop Terrorising Our World" was what some of the clear plastic tops read. First used in his Fall 2006 collection of the same name, he brought it back to show his support for Paris after the horrific attacks on Charlie Hebdo just two weeks ago. I often find statements this bold not to have much deep meaning , however this couldn't be more different it almost brought a tear to my eye and I'm sure I wasn't the only one. The collection yesterday wasn't just about the tragic events at Charlie Hebdo, there were also two other statements written across the clear plastic tops "Demand Beauty" and "Warning: Explicit Beauty" which resembled the city's giant green buttplug of a Christmas Tree. Designed by installation artist Paul McCarthy which even led to an attack on himself. Besides the clear plastic tops which I thought were amazing, I also loved the multicoloured jackets and collaged jumper and coats of his own face is that? Overall this is how to make a statement and still put on a great fashion show. Before we leave this I would just like to add I love what Walter himself had to say on the world today: "Initially, I didn't want to make statements but when you see what is happening in the world, you must react.



Walter Van Beirendonck

Valentino
Valentino is one of the smartest brands around today, all thanks to Pierpaulo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri who still make their collections contemporary somehow to. This collection the pair were inspired by a young Melbourne-based artist Esther Stewart who's geometric coloured block paintings featured on some of the clothes and as you can see from the pictures below, the carpet to the show-space, Hotel Salomon de Rothschild. There's always some terrific traditional tailored pieces but made for now, with a jet of colour or pattern and I think that's what keeping Valentino so successful. I also love any skinny-fit suit and of course these were great. We also seen those beautifully crafted butterflies again only this time in midnight blue over last seasons khaki and burgundy. Valentino camouflage is also something I find aesthetically striking as well and I love seeing backpacks on the runway, maybe that's because I carry one round almost every day and when you can mix practicality with high end luxury it's a win win situation. Finally, those Tribal Indian almost totem poles prints were amazing to. It was just simply a print-tastic collection...sorry for that. My favourite looks from Valentino Autumn and Winter 2015 below.

 


Valentino

Raf Simons
Last season Raf gave us a personal insight into his past with stitched photographs onto garments, this season he had scribbled over lab coats, a Belgium ritual tested to the limit on first year university students named Baptise (wearing lab coats) and the third/fourth year students would make them do tasks, kind of like America's frat houses I guess. In Raf Simons' case, as he was an art student him and a few others had plaster poured over them, if you don't already know, plaster dries really hard and they were live sculptures if you will, anyway they had to free themselves using a hammer and chip away at it. It's like you learn something new about the designer every season and there's a real subtly beauty to that concept that I love. If I remember correctly, last season Raf Simons had people attending the show stood in groups who viewed the collection in different lights, red and green was it? This season was also different to the regular option for catwalk, this time models walked on a platform which was raised off the ground, again forcing attendees to stand. The lighting this time around was beautiful, but gave the models and clothes a real edge to them which was clever. Because of the inspiration, it gave the clothes a sort of bully attitude which looked great, but that doesn't change the fact I still hate bullies. They also had a very rebellious modern attitude to them. This was a great collection and here are my favourite looks featured below...



Raf Simons

Well that is it for Day 1 for menswear in Paris. Join me back tomorrow for my reviews on one of my favourite menswear designers, Kim Jones for Louis Vuitton, also we have a relatively new designer on the scene, Gosha Rubchinskiy who last season's collection I thought was really good and also should we talk 3.1 Phillip Lim? Anyway you know where to find me and I promise I'll upload earlier than I have been. Promise.
The Wolf of High Street
xxx

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