Day 3 at London Collections: Men


On Sunday 11th January we witnessed some of the most exciting fashion, London menswear has to offer. We seen James Long who is at the moment, one of London's most sought after designers, JW Anderson who's career in fashion has skyrocketed since debuting back in 2008, launching a womenswear collection, resort collections and being appointed creative direction of Spanish luxury goods house Loewe, of course there was Moschino under the design direction of controversial Jeremy Scott who to me has a lot of proving to do after his last collection for men. Finally we'll also discuss one of London's fashion heavyweights, it is the one and only Alexander McQueen under Sarah Burton.

James Long
This collection was still amazing, bearing in mind ten looks didn't make it to the show due to late delivery (Don't you hate it when that happens) anyway, like I said the collection was still great. I felt it had a very Kim Jones at Louis Vuitton feeling to it, that luxurious sportswear type feeling. It featured lots of shearling, incredible sweatpants, some of the most interesting takes on denim I have ever seen and those digital prints of the faces that were presented in a fantastic composition were really cool. I love the luxurious twist each garment had in a very deconstructive and reconstructive method of piecing clothes back together. And finally, lace added a really nice contrasting femininity to the maleness of the trucker jackets, combat trousers, hoods and just general oversizing of figures. Great collection.



James Long

JW Anderson
Irish-born and bread, London College of Fashion graduate and serious contender in the fashion universe Jonathan Anderson is quite something. As I mentioned in the introduction, this guy debuted his label in 2008 strictly in his field, menswear. But it wasn't long until he launched womenswear two years later alongside resort and pre season collection, and most recently having acquired investment from LVMH Mo√ęt Hennessy and being appointed Creative Director of Loewe. All at the age of 30. Yeah...Wow. This collection was influenced by the idea of "Something that felt a little apocalyptic, or looking like it came out of a computer game" and a "Mishmash of decades" I just thought straight away that this would be an amazing concept. This I think also links in perfectly with his design philosophy, androgyny or a mishmash of gender, if you will. Back to when I mentioned that this collection crossed over decades, but I felt that it was predominately the 1970's which we know designers are loving at the moment. The shearling, the shape of the collars, the leather belted trench coats, the scarves - which again...Wow. Finally it wouldn't be JW Anderson collection without his continuation of three similar looks one after the other, in either a different colour or material. Congratulations Jonathan Anderson on your best menswear collection to date. Show-stopping looks below.



JW Anderson

Moschino
If you read my blog for Spring/Summer 2015 (Which you should of) you'll be aware of the fact that I thought Jeremy Scott's first menswear collection for Italian brand Moschino, basically stank. But enough of that, the reason I wanted to re-explore for his second collection was to see what has changed over the past six months. I have to say, I loved this collection, I mean there was a few mishaps were I thought it was a little too Scott, but generally overall I thought it was great. This season, saw Jeremy Scott take us around a mini Winter Wonderland ski resort, complete with falling snow and everything. I loved his reference to archive Moschino animal prints in the leopard and zebra garments, the moon-boots were a clever,fresh, very luxe touch. And the fur, faux or faux-real it was simply brilliant and really finished every look it featured on, off (hats, boots, bags). Jeremy is really good at forwarding sex appeal and this was up there with the ultimate of sexy, and the girls looked great. Some pieces like: what appeared to be printed denim, on denim and the metallic blue/orange on silver I didn't necessarily think were bad, but I just didn't think they were needed all that much for the collection, they just didn't do anything for me. Nevertheless it was a huge leap forward for both Jeremy Scott and Moschino.



Moschino

Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen is let's face it, one of them shows that absolutely everybody looks forward to each season. It's a show everyone connects with on a deep emotional level. Sarah Burton has done a tremendous job at upholding such a precious position, since the tragic loss of Lee Alexander McQueen almost five years ago. Another memorable moment throughout last year was the centenary for World War l in particular that incredible display of 888,246 poppies spread out across the Tower of London. Each one representing each fallen hero. Leave it to Sarah Burton to pick up on this and use it as inspiration for her next menswear collection. Based upon military uniforms and three simple words, "Truth, Valour, Honour" this was all that was needed to capture the attention and perhaps hearts of everyone who seen this outstanding collection. Although mainly focused on war, there was also that essence of romance Alexander McQueen shows are so famously known for, said best by the legend himself "There is a hidden agenda in the fragility of romance". What also touched everyone, was the tragedies that had just occurred in Paris a few days earlier, a place close to the McQueen brand. Also the fact fashion can bring a lot of people together when done right and this show was so very right. I loved the heavy roll-neck jumpers, the floral panelling, and the skinny fitting Alexander McQueen suits  are always impeccable. Here are my favourite looks.



Alexander McQueen

Join me tomorrow for the final day of London Collections: Men when we'll discuss some of my favourite shows that London has on offer, Katie Eary, Burberry Prorsum, E Tautz and what I think has been my favourite show over the past four days, Dunhil.

I would like to dedicate this blog post to everyone involved in the conflicts in Paris last week.
Just remember, it's moments like this that brings us all together.
#JeSuisCharlie
xxx

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