Charles Jeffrey's LOVERBOY at London Collections: Men AW16

January 23, 2016

Charles Jeffrey's LOVERBOY at London Collections: Men AW16

Scottish-born Charles Jeffrey is the designer I perhaps know least about in terms of the MAN lineup, that's not to say he doesn't excite me the most. He seems fucking fun. Of course an MA graduate from Central Saint Martins, Charles Jeffrey: LOVERBOY collection is bringing back club culture to the catwalk. His collection runs parallel to his club night of the same name, in that he blurs the line between the two. They simply couldn't exist without the other one. I think I read somewhere that all his friends and fellow club-goers were helping out in every way possible backstage. I love that. This label only exists because of the free-spirit clubbing that Dalston's Vogue Fabrics allows you to have, when dressing and dolling yourself up for an epic night ahead. It's the reason in doing it, but it works. Fashion and the nightlife go hand in hand, especially in East London and its refreshing to see someone like Charles Jeffrey in particular shaking things up on the menswear catwalk quite simply like a young, fresh-out-of-fashion-college John Galliano did on the womenswear counterpart.

Deconstructed is one of my most favourite words in fashion and the first word that sprung to mind when seeing Charles Jeffrey's MAN debut. In a collection themed around "drunk" tailoring and the idea of waking up on your best friends couch - not knowing how you got there of course, in a tailored jacket thats faced the worst of consequences from the events of the night before. Jeffrey is offering something outrageous yet humorous, with a liberating sense of psychedelia prevalent across the entire collection. But above all that, he's offering something very real to some people, spread right across the United Kingdom. From a place very close to me, Garlands of Liverpool to where LOVERBOY exists at Vogue Fabrics, there is a place for these kids to dance, however minute. Shirts have French cuffs, meticulous dating is apparent with cord jackets scrunched up and bell sleeves exuding a sense of 16th Century aristocracy. Oh and not to forget, something that is already becoming deeply associated with LOVERBOY is the hand-painted denim. They're my favourite pieces I think. Each individual item of clothing, whether designed and made by Jeffrey and his team themselves or thrift-shopped - deconstructed and reconstructed, every piece has a strong sense of identity and personality. Just like his LOVERBOY(s). Yes the line is luxurious, punk, over-the-top and darkly flamboyant, but it's also incredibly wearable and that is exactly the reason why I think Charles Jeffrey is here to stay. Who's to say having fun and staying young can't have longevity? I mean he took his bow to "Alright" by Supergrass! On a final note, I think I know who I'd like to see replace Vivienne Westwood when she finally steps down from her namesake label.